| MECHANICAL SYSTEMS AND APPLIANCES |
HOME MAINTENANCE, SERVICE
TIPS AND PROBLEMS |
Heating Systems
Gas, Boiler, Hot Water, Electric and Oil,
plus Wood Stoves |
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All Forced Air Systems:
Conventional filters on forced-air systems should be checked monthly and cleaned or replaced as needed. Electronic filters should be checked monthly and cleaned as needed. Care should be taken to ensure the interior components are installed in the correct orientation after cleaning. Noisy blower sections should be brought to the attention of a technician. All types of furnaces and boilers should be inspected by a qualified technician every year to ensure that all the components are operating properly and no connections are loose or burned. |
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Gas Furnaces and Boilers: If gas odors can be detected, call the gas company immediately. Do not turn on any electrical equipment or use anything with an open flame. Gas furnaces and boilers should be cleaned and serviced annually. The exhaust pipe should be checked for loose or corroded sections. The heat shield (located where the burner enters the heat exchanger) should be checked to ensure that it is not loose or corroded. Burn marks around the heat shield or soot on the front may indicate a draft or combustion problem. A technician should be contacted. |
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All Hot Water Systems:
Radiators and convector's should be inspected annually for leakage (particularly at the valves). Radiators should be bled of air annually, and as necessary during the heating season. Circulating pumps should be lubricated twice during the heating season. Expansion tanks should be drained annually. |
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Electric Heat:
Electric furnaces and boilers should be inspected by a qualified technician every year to ensure that all the components are operating properly and no connections are loose or burned. The fuses or circuit breakers in some electric systems can be checked by the homeowner. Electric baseboard heaters should be inspected to ensure an adequate clearance from combustibles and they are keep clean. Baseboard heaters which have been mechanically dam-aged should be repaired or replaced. |
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Oil Furnaces and Boilers:
Oil systems should be checked by a qualified technician on an annual basis. Oily soot deposits at registers of forced-air systems may indicate a cracked heat exchanger. A technician should be contacted. The exhaust pipe from the furnace or boiler should be checked for loose connections or corroded sections. The barometric damper on the exhaust pipe should rotate freely. The chimney clean out should be cleared of any debris. The oil tank should be inspected for leaks. Soot on the front of the furnace or boiler may indicate a draft or combustion problem. A technician should be contacted. |
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Wood Stoves: Wood stove chimneys and flues should be checked for creosote build-up and cleaned at least annually (more frequently depending upon use). Clearance to combustibles around wood stoves should be maintained at all times. If there is any doubt about the safety of a wood stove, contact the city building inspector immediately. |
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Carbon Monoxide Information |
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Carbon Monoxide:
Carbon monoxide is a
colorless, odorless, highly-poisonous gas formed by the incomplete
combustion of carbon or a carbonaceous material, such as gasoline.
Some producers of carbon monoxide (CO) are industrial processes,
heating equipment, accidental fire, cigarettes and the internal
combustion engine. Generators, candles, and space heaters can all
create CO emissions.
CO is always produced when natural gas, liquid propane, oil, coal,
gasoline or wood are burned; often at dangerous levels. Exhaust
gases need to be vented properly to avoid CO accumulation in any
living space. If the combustion takes place with excess oxygen in a
properly tuned burner, not much CO is produced but improper
adjustment or any smoldering fire can produce significant CO
emissions. |
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How much is too much? There are many standards for CO exposure
limits. The OSHA standard is 50 parts per million (PPM) in the air
as a maximum exposure in the workplace. One PPM is defined as one CO
molecule in one million molecules of air. This is about the same
dilution as one shot glass of gin in a railroad tanker car full of
tonic.
The majority of off-the-shelf home CO detectors are designed to
alarm at 100 PPM and above, to satisfy current laws concerning home
CO alarms. A few home CO meters have digital readouts to show lower
levels but they will not alarm at these lower levels.
The American Society of Heating Refrigeration and Air Conditioning
Engineers (ASHRAE) lists a maximum allowable short term limit of
nine PPM of CO. The EPA has set two
national health
protection standards for CO: a one-hour standard of 35 PPM and an
eight-hour standard of nine PPM. From the above standards and
guidelines it follows that any CO reading over nine PPM should be
investigated and acted upon. |
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Health Effects:
Low-level exposure can cause chronic health conditions from cardiovascular
disease to a Parkinson’s like illness. The following is an excerpt
from the EPA: “The health threat from lower levels of CO is
most serious for those who suffer from heart disease, like angina,
clogged arteries or congestive heart failure. For a person with
heart disease, a single exposure to CO at low levels may cause chest
pain and reduce that person's ability to exercise; repeated
exposures may contribute to other cardiovascular effects. Even
healthy people can be affected by high levels of CO. People who
breathe high levels of CO can develop vision problems, reduced
ability to work or learn, reduced manual dexterity and difficulty
performing complex tasks. At extremely high levels, CO is poisonous
and can cause death. CO contributes to the formation of smog
ground level ozone, which can trigger serious respiratory problems.
U.S. Environmental Protection Agency, August 17, 2007.
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Measuring Exposure:
There are portable, digital meters that measure
various gases. These dosimeters have a digital display of the
current level or concentration of CO. If used over time, they can
compute the total exposure (over time) in units of ppm-hours. There
are guidelines for keeping workplace exposure below 200 ppm-hours
for an eight-hour workday.
The variables that are typically reported in a dosimeter are the
maximum exposure concentration, the time when this occurs, the total
exposure and the time-weighted average (TWA). The TWA is the total
exposure divided by the time over which the exposure occurs (i.e.
the PPM-hours divided by the period of time in hours you collected
the exposure data). If the TWA is over 35 PPM for one hour, you are
in an environment that exceeds the EPA's national health protection
standard. Dosimeters range in price from the low $100s on up. They
sometimes include a maximum exposure reading and a total exposure
reading. |
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If at Risk, Act - If
you are in CO levels above nine PPM, you can and should attempt to
change your environment by opening a window to ventilate the area
with clean air or by leaving the area. Bring in fresh air if
possible. While a level of nine PPM is not an emergency, you should
look for possible sources and cleaner air. Determine the sources of
the CO by looking for activities like smoking, burning toast,
vehicle exhaust or a campfire. If the levels are over 35 PPM,
consider evacuating until the source is determined. If levels are
above 125 PPM, call in a professional fire department and evacuate.
Find the source and have repairs performed.
If a hood is not vented properly as well or if an owner is trying to save
money and not running the hood often enough, CO concentrations can
build up. Management may point to their standard plug-in alarm and
insist that it must be safe because the alarm is not going off, but
such alarms are designed to go off at much higher thresholds so as
to not trigger false alarms. Meanwhile, workers and customers are
exposed to hours of CO at undesired levels. Think about it. Don’t we
need to educate ourselves about CO levels and use good tools for
measurement and protection? If we don’t, who will? |
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Heating Ducts |
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Heating Ducts: Have your ducts cleaned at least every 5 to 6 years, this
keeps your furnace clean and will increase life expectancy. Make sure your ducts have no cracks or leaks in the ductwork and tape were needed. |
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Water Heater |
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Electrical System |
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Electrical System:
To prevent power outages, be sure there are not too many appliances plugged into one circuit. |
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Plumbing System |
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Plumbing System: Avoid flushing any paper products other than toilet paper down the toilets. Check for corrosion, leaks, and add a clean out compound to system once a year. Polybutylene is a form of plastic resin that was used extensively in the manufacture of water supply piping form in 1978 until 1995. Due to the low cost of the material and ease of installation, polybutylene piping systems were viewed as the "the pipe of the future" and were used as a substitute for traditional copper piping. If you have polybutylene lines click on polybutylene information and
polybutylene Class Action Settlement Form plus, for ABS Plastic Pipe: Also know as "All Black-hit. Manufactured in the mid 1980's. It's prone to cracking and causing expensive messes click here.
How to tell if you have Poly - Exterior polybutylene underground water mains are usually blue, but may be gray or black (do not confuse black poly with polyethelene pipe). It is usually 1/2" or 1" in diameter, and it maybe found entering your home through the basement wall or floor, concrete slab or coming up through your crawlspace; frequently it enters the home near the water heater. Your main shutoff valve is attached to the end of the water main. It is wise to check at
both ends of the pipe because we have found cases where copper pipe enters the home, and poly pipe is at the water meter.
Interior - Polybutylene used inside your home can be found near the water heater, running across the ceiling in unfinished basements, and coming out of the walls to feed sinks and toilets. Warning: In some regions of the country, plumbers used copper "stub outs" where the pipe exits a wall to gee a fixture, so seeing copper here does not mean that you have poly. Source: polybutylene |
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Air Conditioning or Swamp Cooler System |
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| Humidifiers |
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Humidifier: Water levels in humidifiers should be checked and adjusted monthly.
Interior components should be replaced on an as needed basis. The pad on drum type humidifiers should be replaced annually. The
water supply to humidifier should be shut off for the summer months and activated for the heating months. On systems with air
conditioning or a heat pump, the damper in the humidifier ductwork should be closed during the cooling season. |
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Microwave |
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Microwave Oven:
Do not use pans or dishes that are metal or have a metallic trim. |
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Only use mild soap and/or baking soda to clean the interior (abrasive cleaners or scouring pads can damage the lining). |
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Refrigerator |
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Refrigerator:
Clean the interior shelves, shell and gaskets every 3 months. |
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Once a year, clean the coils on the back or underneath
and make sure temperatures is set correctly.
Recall - Announced March 21, 2007:
Maytag and Jenn-Air Brand Dishwasher Recall: Jenn-Air Cooktops
Recall: Single Door, Frost Free Upright Freezers -
click here |
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Range and Oven |
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Range and Oven:
To avoid damaging the burners, do not use extra-large and heavy cooking pots or pans. |
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If you have a self-cleaning oven, do not use any other method to clean it.
Recall - Announced March 21, 2007: Maytag and Jenn-Air Brand Dishwasher Recall: Jenn-Air Cooktops Recall: Single Door, Frost Free Upright Freezers -
click here |
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Garbage Disposal |
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Garbage Disposal:
To clean the disposal, push a full tray of ice cubes through it
while running cold water. Always remember to run water during
use and for at least two minutes after you finish. This
prevents stoppages. Jammed Disposal:
A disposal wrench is provided with your garbage disposal and will
either be in a pouch on the disposal or will be in one of the
kitchen drawers. There is a female receptor for the wrench on
the bottom of the disposal. You will need to put the wrench in
the receptor and turn it counter clockwise until the wrench turns
freely. Then press the reset button located at the bottom of
the disposal. Your disposal should once again operate
properly.
If you drop a fork in your disposal, always TURN THE POWER
OFF before you fish it out. |
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Washer
and Dryer |
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Washer and
Dryer: Clean the lint screen after each load of clothes has been dried and the unit is empty. |
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To adjust the level of your washing machine, turn the
legs clockwise to lower them or counter clockwise to raise
them. |
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Hot Tub/Spa/Pool |
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Hot Tub or Spa or
Pool: Keep a proper water level. |
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Consult your pool and spa company for suggestions about maintaining your particular system
and make sure you check weekly. |
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| Structure or Structural |
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Foundation Walls:
Foundation walls should be checked for evidence of deterioration, dampness and movement. Limited dampness from slow moisture migration can be anticipated with most older foundation walls. This will often result in minor surface deterioration.
Semi-annual inspections allow for monitoring of this situation. Cracks and voids should be filled. Filling cracks allows for easy monitoring of movement between inspections. Access hatches should be provided to all crawl space areas. |
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Wood Framing: Exposed
wooden structural components in the basement should be
checked for evidence of rot and insect infestation.
Deterioration usually results in sagging structural
components. |
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Wall and Ceiling Surface Cracks: Wall
and ceiling surface cracks should be monitored for evidence
of significant movement. Minor movement due to normal
settling and shrinkage should be anticipated. |
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Door Frames: Door
frames should be checked to determine their square-ness. Door
frames showing significant movement over a six month period
are normally indications of more serious problems. |
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Grading: The grading immediately adjacent to the house should be checked to ensure a slope of one inch per foot for the first six feet away from the house (where practical).
Catch basins should be cleaned and tested. |
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1.
Roofs and 2.
Gutters plus
3.
Leaking and Damaged Downspouts |
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1. Roofing Installation: Most
residential roofing consists of Laminate (asphalt) shingles. These can be purchased in 3-Tab, 25, 30 and 40 year shingles.
Don't be fooled by the numbers. None of these shingles are
going to withstand any type of severe weather in 12 -15 years. After 20 + years in the business, I still have NO IDEA how they
come up with these numbers. However, the thicker the shingle,
the more value you are going to get for your buck while they
last. Not to mention that a 30 year shingle (which is
recommend for 99% of the homes), it is going to be a prettier
application and save you some cash compared to the thinner 3 -
Tab.
Information on the
class action settlements involving Masonite, Omniwood and
Woodruff -
Shingles.
Cemwood
Roof Shakes: American Cemwood was a well
known manufacturer of imitation wood shakes. Unfortunately many
tend to crack, swell and discolor. Go to there site
cemwood
roof shake claims updated April 4, 2004.
Fire Free
Rood Shakes: Re-Con manufactured
roof tiles composed of 2/3 Portland Cement and 1/3 wood
cellulose fiber. They tend to crack, swell and discolor. Go to
there site -
fire free claims. |
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2. Gutters: Gutters
are an important part of your home's weatherproofing system. For
many homeowners, their gutter system is a secondary concern and
often gets neglected. Don't make that mistake! It is important
that you maintain a free -flowing gutter system as your gutters
prevent rain from running from your roof and falling too close
to your house. Flowing water away from your house properly will
protect your foundation, keep stains from developing on your
siding, and keep walkways ice-free in the wintertime. There are
four basic types of gutters available- aluminum, galvanized
steel, vinyl and sometimes you will find wood
gutters. Galvanized steel gutters, although the least expensive,
also require the most attention and maintenance. Also aluminum
and vinyl gutters offer the most maion as
they are durable and resistant to corrosion. |
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3. Leaking and Damaged Downspout: 1. You will sometimes find
that the downspout joints loosen and lose their ability to be
watertight. Start by removing the screws holding the joint
together or the retaining hardware depending on how yours is
attached.
2.
Pull apart the pieces in the
joint and use the wire brush to remove any existing caulk on
both the outside of the male piece and the inside of the female
piece of the joint. 3.
Inspect the hardware to be
sure that the hardware is not in such condition that it is not
reusable. Your downspout might be dented so that it cannot be
used or your retaining hardware may be damaged. Replace any
pieces that cannot be reused with new material. 4.
Apply caulk to the outside of the
male piece of the joint, near the end, and reattach the female
piece. 5.
Secure the joint with screws or other retaining hardware
suitable for your gutters.
6.
Leaking gutter sections. If you find a leak at the joint, and
there is no apparent damage such as rust or dents, your sealant
is most likely the culprit. Try to scrape away as much of the
old caulk sealant that is visible. 7.
Then, simply apply a joint caulk, such as silicone, to
waterproof the joint. 8.
Leaking areas within straight gutter are usually due to rusting
gutter sections. You can temporarily patch this problem, but the
section will most likely need to be replaced within a couple
years. To patch the rusted area, first clean the rust away using
your wire brush and water. Be sure that you brush away all the
rust so that you minimize the potential for the rust to spread.
9.
Use your putty knife to spread roofing cement onto the clean
area and the surrounding areas. Try to keep the patch as flat as
possible so that water will run down your gutter properly. If
your rusted area is very large or you want to make a more
permanent fix, you should replace the entire gutter section or
cut out the damaged section and replace it. 10.
Replacing a damaged gutter section. There are times when you
will have to remove and replace sections of your gutter system
that have been damaged by rust or falling debris such as tree
branches or ice. Before replacing sections of gutter that are
sagging, be sure that it is your gutter, and not the gutter
support, which has failed. You should first remove any
retaining hardware from the section of gutter that you need to
replace. As shown, remove the retainers and connectors. 11.
Use a 4x4 block of wood and place
it inside the good section of gutter as you cut the bad section
out with a hacksaw. This will keep your gutter in good shape
while you are cutting and prevent the gutter from twisting as
you cut it. 12.
Cut out a section of gutter to
replace the piece you have cut out of the existing gutter. Cut
the replacement section about 2” longer than the section that is
being replaced to allow for some overlap. 13.
Using your caulk gun, apply roofing cement to the inside of the
original gutter and place the new section into place so that it
overlaps about an inch on each side. 14.
Drill holes appropriate to your rivets into the overlapping
sections of the gutter, and securely fasten the sections
together with rivets. 15.
Replace any retaining hardware that you originally removed, so
that the gutter stays in place. |
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Lead Based Paint
Asbestos Facts |
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Lead Based Paint:
There are many substances that are found in our homes besides air and water. Some
of these substances are harmful, but most are not. The amount of any
given substance, or even its mere presence, may determine if your
home is safe or not. The concentration levels of these substances
may determine if you are dealing with an aesthetic issue, a
long-term health risk, or an immediate health threat. Each year,
millions of people die or become seriously ill due to mysterious
illnesses. We believe that many of these illnesses are caused by
environmental hazards that cannot be seen, smelled, or noticed. We
believe there are five main causes to these illnesses: radon
contamination, carbon monoxide poisoning, water contamination,
lead-based paint exposure, and mold exposure. |
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Although it’s true that paint in older homes and buildings may be
lead-based, the truth is that lead-based paints for residential
purposes were virtually banned in 1971, and many companies stopped
adding lead to their paints long before then. However, if older
lead-based paint in your home is deteriorating, it could be
hazardous to you and especially to your children.
The Problem:
Deaths
from lead poisoning are now rare, but it is not unusual for a
child's blood to contain enough lead to cause intellectual and
developmental delay, neurological problems, kidney disease, and
anemia. Children absorb 40-50% of the lead that gets into their
mouths (adults only 10%). Even small amounts of lead can produce
high concentrations in the blood of young children because their
bodies are small. Since children's brains are still developing, the
effect of lead poisoning can be especially damaging.
Today, lead-based paint is the most common source of lead poisoning
in children. Over many years, painted surfaces crumble and become
common household dust. This dust coats the objects that curious
children put in their mouths. Adults can also ingest lead in this
way. It is the most common way for the lead in paint to get into a
person (and it is reassuring that your dust tested negative). Children will also chew on windowsills or other painted surfaces.
Sometimes they will eat old paint chips.
Lead is used to make paint to help it last longer. Prior to World War II, heavily
lead-based paints contained as much as 40% lead by dry weight. The
amount of lead in household paint was reduced in 1950, and reduced
even further in 1978. Most apartments and houses built before 1950
still contain paint with high levels of lead, particularly on doors
and around windows. Later household paints may test positive for
lead, but generally contain much smaller amounts.
Action Levels:
Paint does contain organic solvents, which are used to form a film
that makes the paint both durable and washable. These solvents
release fumes that can be irritating to some people; children and
pets may be more sensitive than adults. Fortunately, the fumes
evaporate and dissipate as the paint dries. To avoid adverse
effects from fumes, ventilate the area well while painting and
during the drying period. Latex paints have only a small
percentage of organic solvents in them (around 4 to 8 percent), but
oil-based paints can have a much higher content and consequently
will release more fumes. It’s probably best not to choose
oil-based paints if you’re painting in winter. For more
information go to -
U.S. Environmental Protection Agency
- EPA Lead Based Paint.
Did you
know.... on January 30, 2008 the State of Colorado adopted stricter laws
and regulations on Asbestos?
There are sizeable fines levied for
non-compliance of these regulations. The word Asbestos is derived
from the Greek word meaning "inextinguishable". The Greeks
considered Asbestos the Miracle Mineral because it was so soft and
pliable and because it was heat resistant. Asbestos has been used
commercially since the late 19th century because of its ability to
resist heat, electricity and chemical change. Asbestos also has very
high sound absorption and tensile strength characteristics.
Inhalation of Asbestos can cause Mesothelioma (cancer caused from
Asbestos) and Asbestosis (chronic inflammation).
Here are
some little known facts about asbestos: Building materials being
manufactured today still contain Asbestos! Buildings of ANY age may
contain Asbestos. There are just a few Asbestos Containing Building
Materials that were no banned. It is illegal to improperly disturb
Asbestor-contaning materials. |
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